Making Narrow Salwar
From 1 1/3 Yards Fabric

by Arabella

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Supplies

  • 1 1/3 yards (48 inches) of 45-inch-wide fabric
  • Thread
  • Either elastic large enough to fit around hips or drawstring that is hip size plus 1/2 yard
  • 1/8 yard of heavy interfacing for bottom edge

These tools will be needed for construction:

  • Shears to cut fabric
  • Scissors to cut thread
  • Measuring tape to measure & create shapes
  • Yardstick or other straight edge to use in drawing shapes
  • Pencil, pen, or marker to draw shapes
  • Needles
  • Bodkin or safety pin for threading elastic or drawstring through hip band

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Construction

Cutting Diagram

Measure and cut pieces as shown from the pants fabric.

From the interfacing, cut 2 pieces, each 1 inch wide and 12 inches long.

Using seams 1/2 inch deep, assemble the pieces as shown in the diagrams below.

  1. Sew front pieces to back piece.
  2. Baste interfacing strips to the inside of the bottom edge of each pant leg.
  3. Right sides together, sew facing to bottom edge of pant legs, sewing through all 3 thicknesses (pant leg, interfacing, facing). Turn to inside. Turn raw edge under 1/4 inch and pin or baste into place.
  4. From right side, do decorative top stitching to anchor top edge of facing. This can be either matching thread or contrasting thread, depending on look desired.
  5. Pleat or gather top edge of pants to fit the length of the hip band. Stitch to hip band, right sides together.
  6. Sew center front of hip band and front pieces of pant legs together at crotch.
  7. Sew inside-leg seams.
  8. Turn under 1/4 inch of top hip band, then fold to the inside to cover the seam joining the hip band to the pants. Stitch into place, leaving 1 inch unstitched to allow insertion of elastic.
  9. If using elastic, cut to size of hips minus 1 inch. If using drawstring, cut to size of hips plus 18 inches.
  10. Use either a bodkin or a safety pin to thread elastic or drawstring through the hip band.
  11. If using elastic, sew edges together, then sew opening shut. If using drawstring, place a knot at each end and don't sew hole shut.
How the Pieces Fit Together

Final Appearance

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Acknowledgements

Arabella, the author of this article, has contributed many informative pieces to this web site on a variety of topics, including:

  • Analysis of technique for doing certain dance moves
  • Costume ideas
  • Essays and opinion pieces
  • Understanding Middle Eastern music
  • Helpful how-to's, such as remembering choreography

Click here to explore these other insightful articles.

Arabella began her dance studies with Russian Ballet classes. Frustrated by ballet's impossible ideals, and curious about more ethnic dance disciplines, she moved on to study various other dance forms. Moving further east each time, these included Spanish flamenco, Escuela Bolera, Middle Eastern, and East Indian Odissi.

Arabella, based in Toronto, Canada, is also a certified Mastercraftsman in crewel embroidery, with a special passion for metal thread and ethnic embroidery. Currently she particularly focuses on Palestinian and East Indian embroidery.

In the photo to the right, Arabella wears a Pharaonic costume inspired by ancient Egypt. Photo taken by Carolyn Thompson, a fellow embroiderer.

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