Making A Semicircular Veil

by Shira

These instructions describe how to make a veil that is suitable for the types of movements that I teach and perform for dancing with semicircular veils. These movements include one-handed veil work, double veil, and cape work. For example, the double veil dance that I'm performing in one the photograph accompanying the "trim" section below requires two semicircular veils made as described in this article.

PHOTO CREDIT: This photograph was taken in 1996 by Evelyn Elliot Whitlock.

Origin Of The Semicircular Veil

According to dance researcher Morocco, the use of 3-yard rectangular veils began in the United States in the late 1950's and 1960's when American dancers who got jobs working in the ethnic nightclubs had little knowledge of how to actually dance. One thing they did to fill their performance time was to bring a veil on stage with them and work with it for a bit. Over the subsequent decades, use of veils has evolved into an integral part of American-style belly dancing, and creative dancers have developed many beautiful ways to use them.

So far as I have been able to learn, the first dancer to use a semicircular veil instead of a rectangle was Jamila Salimpour, who was a popular teacher of belly dancing in the San Francisco area starting in the 1960's. She got the idea from watching films of Egyptian dancers who entered wearing capes and then removed them.

Shira Performing Double Veil

PHOTO CREDIT: Photo by John Rickman, San Jose, California.

Introduction To The Semicircular Veil

The fabrics and trims recommended below are designed to create an optimal veil for this style of dance. If you don't plan to use your semicircular veil for these particular movements, then you have more freedom in selecting fabrics and trims--you can vary away from the specific materials recommended below. Even if you don't incorporate such movements into your dance, you may enjoy trying your own normal veil movements with a semicircular veil as a change of pace.

For example, the veil pictured in this photograph is made of a fabric that is too lightweight to work well with my semicircular veil technique. It was one of my earlier attempts, and I consider it a "mistake" because it simply doesn't move the way I intended it to. However, it is still a very beautiful veil, as you can see from the way it drapes in this photograph, and I do still use it when I'm in the mood to do "generic" veil movements that don't particularly require a semicircular veil.

Many veil dance movements are suitable for both rectangular veils and circular veils, but some aren't. If this is your first experience with a semicircular veil, practice your favorite veil movements with it in private before you use it to perform. Then make a video of yourself dancing with it, and decide for yourself which of your veil movements look good and feel comfortable with it.

This veil is 3 yards (275 centimeters) long and 54 inches (138 centimeters) wide at its widest point. It is a perfect half circle in shape. If you are less than 5 feet 5 inches in height (about a meter and a half), you may find it easier to work with a somewhat smaller veil, perhaps 2.5 yards (229 centimeters) long and 45 inches (114 centimeters) wide.

Supplies

Thread

Fabric

Recommended Fabrics

Here are some suggestions for suitable fabric that make a well-behaved semicircular veil:

Charmeuse (Either polyester or silk. Shiny enough to capture the light, and moves beautifully.)
Tissue Lamé (Doesn’t drape as nicely as the others because it’s so stiff, but it's shiny enough to capture the light, and moves well.)
Foils (For example, liquid gold & liquid silver. Shiny enough to capture the light, and move beautifully.)
Georgette (Not shiny, but moves beautifully.)
China Silk

In this photograph, I am performing a double veil dance using a pair of semicircular veils made of tissue lamé fabric.

Fabrics To Avoid

Fabrics you should avoid because they don't move very well:

Chiffon (Too limp.)
Nylon Tricot (Too limp.)
Heavy Satin (Too stiff.)
Brocade (Too stiff.)
Lace (It has a tendency to get caught on the sequins, rhinestones, coins, or other decorations on your costume.)

How Much Fabric To Buy

If your fabric is 36 inches (91.5 centimeters) wide, buy 6 yards (549 centimeters). If your fabric is 45 inches (114 centimeters) wide, buy 5 yards (458 centimeters). If your fabric is 54 inches (138 centimeters) wide or wider, buy 3 yards (275 centimeters).

Trim

Trim is crucial to making your semicircular veil flow properly with semicircular veil movements such as one-handed veil work. If you don’t put enough trim on your veil, or if you choose the wrong kind, it will be difficult to work with.

I use two different trims, one for the straight edge and one for the curved edge. That way, when dancing with the veil, I can easily identify by touch which edge I am holding.

For the curved edge: On charmeuse, I usually use sequin trim that is one inch wide. On tissue lamé, I usually use sequin trim that is 1½ (4 centimeters) or 2 inches (6 centimeters) wide. Another trim, which works beautifully on georgette, is to sew paillettes onto the curved edge about 1 inch (2.5 centimeters) apart. You’ll need 5 yards (458 centimeters) of trim for the curved edge.

For the straight edge: I usually sew a single row of sequin-by-the-yard trim on the straight edge. You’ll need 3 yards (275 centimeters) of trim for the straight edge.

In the photo of the red and gold costume pictured above, I am using a semicircular veil made of Persian lace fabric. The straight edge has single-strand sequin-by-the-yard trim, and the curved edge has sequin trim that is 2 inches (6 centimeters) wide.

Making The Veil

Cutting It Out

To make your pattern, tape together newspapers to make a sheet that is 54 inches square. Tie one end of a string to a pencil. Then cut the string so that it is 54 inches long. Anchor one end of the string at one corner of the newspaper (or have a second person hold it in place for you), and then use the pencil end to draw an arc. Cut along the drawing line.

Fold your fabric so that the selvages run along both the top and bottom edges. Place one of the straight edges of your pattern against the fold, and cut it out.

Constructing It

If you bought fabric that is narrower than 54 inches, you’ll need to piece your veil. This will result in a seam near the lower edge of the curve, but don’t worry—when the veil is in motion during your dance, it won’t be noticeable. Really! (Don't believe me? Look at the photo of the red and silver costume above.) Some dancers decorate this seam with trim to hide it, but I prefer to leave it undecorated because the trim calls attention to the fact that you have a horizontal line across the bottom edge of your veil. To piece it, sew a very tiny seam, 1/4-inch (.64 centimeters) wide or even narrower. Then press the seam either up toward the top or down toward the bottom, and stitch the edge down. How It Looks When Pieced

Finishing It

To hem the curved edge: First, place the raw curved edge in your sewing machine and stitch a line 1/4 inch (.64 centimeters) from the edge all the way around the curved edge. Next, sit in a comfortable chair and turn the hem under along the stitching line, and turn it under again. Pin into place about once every 12 inches (30 centimeters). You’ll find that the stitching line makes it easy to get the curve to behave itself. Then, machine-stitch the hem in place. Click here for more detailed instructions on making this hem.

You probably don't need to hem the straight edge, because it lies along the selvage of the fabric, and the selvage doesn't ravel. However, I usually do turn it under and stitch it anyway, because that gives it added strength and makes it hold up better when I dance with it.

Trims

Trims By The Yard

Sew the trim you purchased for the straight edge into place.
Sew the trim you purchased for the curved edge into place.

Paillette Trim

This is a beautiful way to finish off the curved edge of the veil.

To use rocaille beads to attach the paillettes:

Knot your thread and draw through the edge of the fabric to the right side at one end of the veil. Thread two rocaille beads onto the needle. Then thread a paillette onto the needle. Draw the beads up close to the fabric. Then run the needle back through the beads, going first through the bead closer to the paillette, then through the bead closer to the fabric. Run the needle through the fabric to the wrong side, and then take a tiny stitch to anchor it in place. Repeat this process until you have a line of paillettes evenly spaced across the curved edge of the veil. Take a couple of extra tiny stitches on the end, and anchor the thread with a knot.

To attach the paillettes without rocaille beads:

Knot your thread and draw through the edge of the fabric to the right side at one end of the veil. String a paillette on the needle and pull it through. Take a stitch through the fabric about 1/2 inch (or 1 centimeter) away from the first one and string another paillette. Continue across. Keep the thread somewhat loose between stitches so that the paillettes have some freedom to dangle.