PHOTO CREDIT: Above photo by John Rickman Photography, San Jose, California.

This picture shows a typical baladi dress. It's a long sheath style for folkloric dance that's worn with a hip scarf or fringed belt, and usually has sleeves. It can be glamorous in sparkly stretch lace, sheer knit, or velvet, or more folky in an ethnic pattern or assuit (hammered metal strips in the fabric).

If you are an accomplished seamstress, a basic fitted sheath can be used as a pattern — cut the neckline as low as you like, in front and back, but keep a small strap across back neck to avoid shoulder slippage while dancing. Zipper could be at back or on the side. The "Arabic" cut-out sleeve and semicircular sleeve ruffle are modifications.

Click on the photo to the right to see the dress in more detail.

If you have a slim figure but need to cover stretch marks or scars, the dress could be form-fitting. If you need to camouflage a protruding tummy, the dress could have a roomier fit.

The dress in the diagram to the right shows a more theatrical variation, with form-fitting style, and neckline cut low enough to show the bra.

The dancer Morocco from New York City is one of the leading experts in the U.S. on Egyptian dance. In this photo, she is wearing a beautiful baladi dress designed and made for her by the legendary Egyptian costume designer, the late Madame Abla.

As this photo shows, a baladi dress can be very sparkly.

Click on the photo to see this dress in more detail.

The term baladi dress can be used interchangeably with the word gallabiya, when referring to the women's version of the long, loose-fitting garment in the traditional style. An Egyptian person would normally just use the term gallabiya.

The image to the right is on the envelope for the "Egyptian Shirt" pattern sold by the Folkwear pattern company. A dancer who wished to make a traditional style of gallabiya could use this pattern, choose opaque cotton fabric, and make the dress long enough to reach the floor.

A traditional gallabiya or baladi dress has a high neckline, wrist-length sleeves, and no slits in the skirt.

• Ask The Costume Goddess: Large Tummy. This was the Costume Goddess article that triggered the question on this page.
• Ask The Costume Goddess: Baladi Dress With Veil. Choosing a baladi dress that looks good with veil work.
• Dear Shira: Am I Too Fat To Dance? Shira responds to a reader who asked whether large women can belly dance.

• Dear Shira: What About My Scars? Shira responds to a reader who asked what to do about scars when making costume decisions.

Dina has been sewing for more than twenty-five years (yes, she started as a toddler!)

She's also an artist (Maryland Institute of Art) and perfected her sewing techniques apprenticed to various designers, freelancing for small theaters, restyling vintage garments, and altering wedding gowns.

Dina fell in love with belly dancing costumes upon her very first lesson. Now the pleasure of wearing her own designs, and seeing others wear them, offers as much pleasure as dancing. She's become expert as well in altering those troublesome ready-made Egyptian costumes, and modifying designs to flatter individual figures.

She holds workshops in Seattle to teach design and construction of cabaret costumes, and analysis of figure characteristics. She will also give private lessons, or resize or repair a secondhand costume. She's thus earned her Costume Goddess title.

The Costume Goddess Tells All Costuming Books

Dina has published six books of her own on belly dance costuming as well as writing nearly all the costuming section for The Belly Dance Book. For information on her series of books, The Costume Goddess Tells All, see her web site at www.costumegoddess.com. For reviews here on Shira.net of some of her books, see:

• Volume 1: Flattering Costume for Bellydancers. Advice on designing a belly dance costume that will look flattering for your figure type.
• Volume 2: Easy Costume for Bellydancers. Explains how to create easy-to-make costume items if you have very little sewing experience.
• Volume 3: Cabaret Belt and Bra for Bellydancers. Detailed instructions for making your own bra/belt set. Emphasis on the beaded/sequined look, but some coin information too.
• Volume 4: Arm Costume for Bellydancers. Creative ideas for sleeves, armbands, gauntlets, and drapes.
• Volume 5: Tribal Toppings for Bellydancers. Cholis, vests, and other tops suitable for U.S. Tribal costuming.
• Volume 6: Thrifty Chic for Bellydancers. Transforming thrift shop bargains into belly dance costume pieces.
• Volume 7: Headpieces for Bellydancers. Many simple, inexpensive ideas for costuming from the neck up.