PHOTO CREDIT: Above photo by John Rickman Photography, San Jose, California.

For those who don't know, the debke, Mish Mish informed me, is a popular traditional line dance done in Palestine, Syria, Jordan and Lebanon; it is believed to have been introduced by the Turks during the Ottoman Empire when they ruled much of the Middle East to Eastern Europe. The costume is heavily influenced by Turkish fashion of the 19th century.

The style of costume varies from village to village, country to country, but reflects the native dress of the inhabitants.

The full Turkish pants you want to wear are called shalwar. The simpler version of these are easy to make and most pattern companies have them. The image to the right shows the cover of the pattern for making them sold by Atira's Fashions. You could even use a pair of unstructured pants three sizes too large and pull in the top and ankles with elastic.

I've illustrated two styles of overdress in the diagram to the right. Click on the image to see it in more detail.

The style on the left might be easier to put together in a hurry, and consists of a simple long sleeved peasant blouse, full skirt, and sashes, hip scarves, and a babushka-style head scarf tied behind head or under chin. All of these are not difficult to make or find. An embroidered-trim vest or jacket would be optional. Again, basic sewing skills would be adequate.

The pillbox hat could be decorated with coins and trim , and be worn with or without a veil. The forms for these are available in some costume shops.

The tunic on the right above is similar to the Gaza dress and the Syrian dress in the Folkwear line of patterns (see right). The patterns sold by Atira's Fashions also include a couple of similar ones called Farida's Folk Chemise and Cemiyeh's Caftan. Instead of the authentic heavy gold embroidery (passementerie), bold embroidered ribbons and trim could be used to create a similar effect.

Flat shoes or boots emphasize stamping steps.

In the photo to the left, Shira is wearing a Palestinian style of dress. In the photo to the right, she is wearing one made in Syria. These are both examples of traditional dresses in the region from which debke comes.

Although a tight costume budget would not allow for all the elaborate cross-stitch hand embroidery to be done for a troupe ensemble, the look can be approximated with purchased trims, fabric appliqués, or machine embroidery.

Although Shira's dresses shown above were both made in Syria and purchased in the U.S. from an importer, patterns exist to make dresses in these styles, complete with detailed embroidery instructions and patterns. The patterns are available from the Folkwear pattern company.

Because Debke Queen wants to use pants as part of the ensemble, this dress could be cut to fall at mid-knee length or just below, and pants could be worn underneath it.

If a Lebanese or Palestinian look such as the dress above with the amber color of embroidery is preferred rather than a Syrian look, the Gaza Dress pattern from Folkwear (shown on the left) would be more suitable.

• Dresses in Middle Eastern Dance Costuming. Overview and photos of dress styles used for Middle Eastern dance, including traditional folkloric looks.
• Belly Dance Costumes for SCA & Renaissance Faires. Recommendations on what to wear for historical re-enactment events.
• Pants in the 16th Century. By Dawn Devine Brown.
• Belly Dance Costume Patterns. Commerically-available patterns for making costume items.
• About Assuit. By Trish St. John. Some historical and cultural information about the fabric known as assuit or tulle bi telli.
• Ask the Costume Goddess: What Is a Baladi Dress? By Dina Lydia.

• Ask the Costume Goddess: What to Wear for Debke. By Dina Lydia.
• Palestinian Costumes & Embroidery: A Precious Legacy. Shira reviews a video documentary of Palestinian thobes.
• The Folkwear Book of Ethnic Clothing. Shira reviews a book which contains valuable costuming ideas for tradiational garb.
• From Turban to Toe Ring. Shira reviews a book containing helpful costume ideas for historical re-enactment.

• Quick Salwar (Pantaloons). Make your own pattern - easily!
• Narrow Salwar (Pantaloons). Use only 1 1/3 yard of fabric.

• Easy-to-Make Baggy Pants: One Size Fits Most. Even if you are not good at sewing.
• Ask the Costume Goddess: How to Make Harem Pants. By Dina Lydia.

Dina has been sewing for more than twenty-five years (yes, she started as a toddler!)

She's also an artist (Maryland Institute of Art) and perfected her sewing techniques apprenticed to various designers, freelancing for small theaters, restyling vintage garments, and altering wedding gowns.

Dina fell in love with belly dancing costumes upon her very first lesson. Now the pleasure of wearing her own designs, and seeing others wear them, offers as much pleasure as dancing. She's become expert as well in altering those troublesome ready-made Egyptian costumes, and modifying designs to flatter individual figures.

She holds workshops in Seattle to teach design and construction of cabaret costumes, and analysis of figure characteristics. She will also give private lessons, or resize or repair a secondhand costume. She's thus earned her Costume Goddess title.

The Costume Goddess Tells All Costuming Books

Dina has published six books of her own on belly dance costuming as well as writing nearly all the costuming section for The Belly Dance Book. For information on her series of books, The Costume Goddess Tells All, see her web site at www.costumegoddess.com. For reviews here on Shira.net of some of her books, see:

• Volume 1: Flattering Costume for Bellydancers. Advice on designing a belly dance costume that will look flattering for your figure type.
• Volume 2: Easy Costume for Bellydancers. Explains how to create easy-to-make costume items if you have very little sewing experience.
• Volume 3: Cabaret Belt and Bra for Bellydancers. Detailed instructions for making your own bra/belt set. Emphasis on the beaded/sequined look, but some coin information too.
• Volume 4: Arm Costume for Bellydancers. Creative ideas for sleeves, armbands, gauntlets, and drapes.
• Volume 5: Tribal Toppings for Bellydancers. Cholis, vests, and other tops suitable for U.S. Tribal costuming.
• Volume 6: Thrifty Chic for Bellydancers. Transforming thrift shop bargains into belly dance costume pieces.
• Volume 7: Headpieces for Bellydancers. Many simple, inexpensive ideas for costuming from the neck up.