PHOTO CREDIT: Above photo by John Rickman Photography, San Jose, California.
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Ask the Costume Goddess |
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Ask the Costume Goddess:
Working with Glitter Dot Fabric
by Dina Lydia
The Question
Dear Costume Goddess:
I would like to know how to sew on fabric that looks like it
has sequins on it, but is really painted or glued on? I tried
sewing this type of fabric and the glue gummed up my needles
causing my thread to break. What do I need to do to sew on this
particular type of fabric? I am trying to make a beledi dress.
Thanks and have a great evening.
--Glittery Fabric
The Costume Goddess Responds
Dear Glittery,
The fabric I've seen labeled "glitter dot" is a metallic
knit or a velour that has a pattern of reflective dots fused
onto the surface. It catches the light beautifully, similar to
real sequins, but at a more modest price. It makes a glamorous
caftan-style coverup, scarf, or skirt.
In the photo, my turban
is made with glitterdot fabric. Click on the photo to see the turban in more detail.
The adhesive will indeed gunk up your needle while sewing.
For this reason a garment with few seams is more suitable than
one with darts and fitted sleeves.
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I have a list of tips found on a flyer at the fabric store,
which may be helpful:
- Choose styles with simple, classic lines. The beauty of the
garment will be in the fabric itself.
- Make fitting adjustments on the pattern. Alterations will
mark the fabric (with holes).
- When pinning pattern, place pins between seam line and edge
(to avoid holes that show).
- Use a size 12 needle in sewing machine.
- Place a drop of "Sewer's Aid" (a lubricant) on
needle and bottom of presser foot for ease in sewing.
- Set stitch length slightly long.
- Avoid top stitching.
- Sew at a very slow speed to prevent friction from the needle,
causing it to get warm and create a sticky build-up.
- If needle develops a sticky build-up, use nail polish remover
or alcohol to wipe needle and re-apply "Sewer's Aid".
- If needle becomes dull replace it with a new one.
- When pressing use a low heat setting.
- Always press back side of fabric.
- Do not touch iron to sequins.
- Finger-press seams to open them and lightly press tip of
iron to back of seam, using a presscloth.
I have to add that the dots can peel off from heat, rough
wear and handling, or washing, so handle with care. Hand sewing
a hem will be easier than trying to topstitch it - or just sew
trim over raw edge.
I've used this fabric to cover a belt and bra by hand with
beautiful results, but it was difficult, and my finger was sore
for days. (No, the CG does not use a thimble.) I would recommend
this only for experts at sewing!
--The Costume Goddess
Additional Thoughts
After this article was originally published, another dancer
offered some input of her own on glitter dot fabric. Here it is:
- A well-known maker of beaded costumes named Vicki Horiuchi
doesn't think much of the glitter dot as is, but she likes to
use the ready-made grid pattern to add beads onto, making vertical,
horizontal and diagonal patterns. It ends up looking much more
expensive.
- If you layer an openwork lacy fabric, especially black lace,
over the glitter dot, just the sparkle shows through the lace,
subduing the polka-dot gaudiness of the glitter dot. It's a gorgeous
effect on stage. A sheath skirt or dress would be the perfect
piece to use this technique.
About the Costume Goddess
Dina has been sewing for more than twenty-five
years (yes, she started as a toddler!)
She's also an artist (Maryland Institute of Art) and perfected
her sewing techniques apprenticed to various designers, freelancing
for small theaters, restyling vintage garments, and altering
wedding gowns.
Dina fell in love with belly dancing costumes upon her very
first lesson. Now the pleasure of wearing her own designs, and
seeing others wear them, offers as much pleasure as dancing. She's
become expert as well in altering those troublesome ready-made
Egyptian costumes, and modifying designs to flatter individual
figures.
She holds workshops in Seattle to teach design and construction
of cabaret costumes, and analysis of figure characteristics.
She will also give private lessons, or resize or repair a secondhand
costume. She's thus earned her Costume Goddess title. |
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The Costume Goddess Tells All Costuming Books
Dina has published six books of her own on belly dance costuming
as well as writing nearly all the costuming section for The
Belly Dance Book. For information on her series of books, The Costume Goddess Tells All, see her web site at www.costumegoddess.com.
For reviews here on Shira.net of some of her books, see:
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Costume Goddess Photos
To view a photo gallery featuring pictures of Dina, costumes
she has designed, and her friends, either click on the choices below or visit her web site:
The contents of this page are copyrighted 2009 by Dina Lydia. All rights reserved. Unauthorized duplication is forbidden.
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