Making a Circle Skirt

by Shira

Table of Contents

About the Circle Skirt

The circle skirt has been a favorite part of the belly dancer's costume wardrobe for many years. It has minimal bulk at the hipline, yet is very full at the floor. For dancers who want a modern-day nightclub-style costume, this skirt is very satisfying to wear because it enhances the movements of the dance. Made of inexpensive fabric such as nylon tricot, it can be fun to wear for class or rehearsal.

If made of fabric that is not see-through, you can wear the circle skirt by itself, or you can wear pantaloons underneath for a more modest look. The pantaloons can be either sheer or opaque.

I like to layer two or more circle skirts, each made of different fabric but in colors that look good with each other.

In this photograph, I am performing a double veil dance wearing three circle skirts made of tissue lamé fabric — one each in red, green, and gold. Each is made with 3 panels. Note how the fabric responds to the momentum of spinning. Underneath them, I am wearing a pair of sheer gold pantaloons.

A circle skirt can be flattering for dancers who:

• Want a full skirt to balance either broad shoulders or an ample bosom
• Wear their hair in a fluffy style
• Enjoy feeling a skirt swirl around their legs when doing spins or Arabesques
• Want to capture a retro look in their dance with chiffon or georgette skirts
• Are aiming for a romantic aesthetic
• Want to convey a retro look

A circle skirt might not be the best choice for dancers who:

• Have pear-shaped figures (large hips with narrow shoulders)
• Want a costume in the style of the latest fashions in Egypt
• Are aiming for a sleek, sophisticated look

Supplies

Consider purchasing not only enough fabric to make the circle skirt, but also a matching veil, a matching vest or sleeves, and a matching scarf for the hair. That will offer a wider range of choices when choosing what to wear for a given occasion.

Note: this list of supplies assumes that the skirt will consist of a total of three half-circle panels, and it assumes the top edge will be finished using the recommended method described on How To Make A Hip Elastic Casing With Wide Bias Tape. If the top edge will be finished a different way, then it will be necessary to adjust the list of supplies accordingly.

Fabric

Important Note: The fabric utilized will determine how soon the finished circle skirt can be worn. Certain fabrics require several weeks to hang on a hanger and stretch before hemming. If in a hurry to wear the finished skirt soon, it will be necessary to select a fabric that does not require several weeks of stretching. Fabrics that do not require stretching include tissue lamé, foils, nylon tricot, glitter dot fabric, and most other knits.

Recommended Fabrics

Here are some suggestions for suitable fabric that make a beautiful circle skirt. If you are new to sewing, you might not know the difference between charmeuse, lamé, georgette, or the other fabrics indicated. Don't let that intimidate you – just ask the staff at the fabric store to show you where each of these fabrics can be found. It's their job to make it easier for customers to spend money in their store!

When choosing a color, remember that shiny fabrics will make your hips appear larger. If you're sensitive about your hip size consider choosing a darker color. If you go for a matte fabric that doesn't sparkle, any color you enjoy should be fine.

Fabrics to Avoid

Avoid these fabrics because they don't drape or move very well:

Trim

For the trim that will be used for decorating the lower edge of the skirt:

• For a 3-panel skirt, buy 17 yards (15 1/2 meters)
• For a 2-panel skirt, buy 12 yards (11 meters)

This could be a shiny braid or a sequin trim for a sparkly costume. For a peasant look the trim might be narrow bias tape or rickrack placed on a cotton skirt.

Another way to decorate the bottom edge of a circle skirt would be to hand-sew a row of either bugle beads or rocaille beads to it. Bugle beads look attractive arranged in a zig-zag pattern like this: / \ / \ / \

Making the Skirt

Measurements Needed

Measure the distance around the hips at the belt line, which is where the top edge of the skirt will lie when wearing it. This should be about halfway between the navel and the fullest part of the hips — just about one inch (2.54 cm) higher than what would be needed to fully cover your rear cleavage.

The measurement should be taken while wearing the shoes that are worn when performing. Have a friend measure the distance from the belt line to where you want the finished length to be — most dancers want the skirt to fall to the instep of the foot or slightly higher. If the skirt is too long, it will be easy to step on it by accident when dancing. If the measurements are taken in front of a full-length mirror, you can more easily tell whether the friend is bringing the tape measure to the desired length.

Record the measurements here:

Creating the Pattern Piece

To make the pattern, tape together newspapers to make a sheet that is 45 inches square or larger.

Now, look for the hip measurement in the first column of the following chart. If your hip measurement falls between lines, go to the next larger line:

If planning a skirt with 3 half-circle panels, find the corresponding measurement in the "3 Panels" column. If planning a skirt with 2 half-circle panels, find the corresponding measurement in the "2 Panels" column.

Set the compass to the number of inches indicated by the table. Or, if a compass is not available, tie one end of a string to a pencil. Then cut the string so that it is the length indicated in the table above

How the numbers in the table were calculated:

For the 2-panel column, first divide the hip measurement by pi (3.14159). Since a compass is to half the length of the diameter (distance across the circle), then divide by 2 to get the radius (the compass measurement). Add some extra (1.5 inches or 3 cm). In all cases, round up to the next larger inch so that the resulting skirt won't have gaps where the panels meet. This allows for the straight edges to be turned under and hemmed while still covering the hips adequately.

For the 3-panel column, first divide the hip measurement by 3 and multiply by 2 to go from having a circle and a half total to having just one circle. Next divide by pi (3.14159) to get the diameter, and then divide by 2 to get the compass setting. Add some extra (1.5 inches or 3 cm). In all cases, round up to the next larger inch so that the resulting skirt won't have gaps where the panels meet. This allows for the straight edges to be turned under and hemmed while still covering the hips adequately.

Anchor the compass or one end of the string at one corner of the newspaper, and then use the pencil end to draw an arc. This is the hip line for the pattern.

Next, fill in the blanks on this table:

Tie one end of a string to a pencil. Then cut the string so that it is the length indicated in last line of the table above. Anchor the compass or one end of the string at the same corner of the newspaper as before (or have a second person hold it in place for you), and then use the pencil end to draw an arc. This will be the lower edge of the skirt. Cut out the pattern. The finished shape will be a quarter circle with its tip cut off as shown in this diagram. Click on the image to the right to see it in more detail.

Instead of drafting your own pattern as described above, you could alternately purchase a ready-made pattern. Atira's Fashions is one such vendor you can search for on the web.

Cutting Out the Skirt

Completely open up the fabric so it doesn't have any folds at all. Place the pattern in one corner of the fabric as shown above and pin it into place. Cut along the solid lines, but do not cut the dotted line. Pick up the pattern piece and place it so that one of the straight edges matches the uncut part along the dotted line. Cut along the solid lines. You'll end up with a half circle piece shaped like the diagram.

Cut out your additional panels, flip-flopping the position of the pattern as shown to avoid wasting any fabric.

Seams / Slits

If making a 3-panel skirt, with right sides together, sew two of the panels together along one of the straight edges. This will be the center back. The other straight edges can be left un-sewed to form slits that would expose the thighs in front if desired, or they can be sewn closed instead for a more covered look. It depends on what the desired finished look for the skirt. Click on the diagram to the right to see it in more detail.

For a 2-panel skirt, people usually seam at least one side of it, but the other side can be left open as a slit if desired.

If leaving a slit or two, hemming the straight edges on either side of the slit is optional. It depends on the fabric and personal preference. Normally, when cutting the skirt out the straight edges of the pattern piece would be aligned with the selvages (finished edges) of the fabric as shown in the cutting diagrams above. Because these edges of the fabric have been woven in a way to prevent fraying, they could be left unhemmed if desired. Sometimes people decorate the sides of the slits, other times not. Some fabrics such as glitter dot or chiffon have selvages that aren't very attractive. For such fabrics, hemming the straight edges may be desirable to hide the ragged edge.

Click here for directions on how to make the recommended type of hem.

Make Elastic or Drawstring Casing at Top Edge

A "casing" is a tunnel of fabric through which either elastic or a drawstring is placed.

Make a casing for the elastic or drawstring in the top edge of each panel. Wide bias tape is recommended because it is a very easy way to deal with the curved edge, and it is sturdy enough to run safety pins through when wearing the costume. Click here for detailed instructions on how to do it. Even though those instructions describe how to insert the elastic, don't do it yet - wait until after hemming the bottom edge and applying the trim.

Hanging the Skirt

Using either pins or basting stitches, attach the top edge of the skirt piece to a wire hanger. Hang it in an out-of-the-way place for at least one month. The longer, the better. This is very important. Many fabrics will stretch along the bias, which is the diagonal. If the skirt isn't hung to let the stretching happen before hemming it and putting trim on the bottom edge, then it will stretch later when the skirt is stored or worn. The result will be an ugly, uneven lower edge, which will be a real nuisance to remedy after hemming and decorating. So hang it. Clip clothespins about every 6-8 inches along the lower edge to give added weight and encourage the stretching to happen.

Is it really necessary to wait 1-2 months before finishing the new skirt? It may be possible to skip the hanging stage, depending on which fabric is used. There are some fabrics that don't "grow" over time.

If a fabric doesn't appear on the above list, the safest option is to hang it. When in doubt, hang it.

After 1-2 months have elapsed, take a scissors and even out the lower edge. Some people like to insert the elastic (see below) in the top edge and put the skirt on while someone else uses the scissors to even out the hem while they are wearing it. If there are any figure issues that could cause a skirt to hang unevenly (for example, one leg longer than the other, or a voluptuous back side), then this approach is advisable. A skirt that seems perfectly even on the hanger could look uneven on some bodies.

When the hanging time has elapsed, remove the skirt piece from the hanger.

Finishing It

A serger sewing machine could be used to finish the hem. For those who don't have access to a serger:

Place the raw curved edge in the sewing machine and stitch a line 1/4 inch (.64 centimeters) from the edge all the way around the curved edge. Next, sit in a comfortable chair and turn the hem under along the stitching line, and turn it under again. Pin into place about once every 12 inches (30 centimeters). The stitching line makes it easy to roll the raw edge to the inside. Machine-stitch the hem in place. Click here for more detailed instructions on making this hem.

Some people like to turn the hem toward the right side when using a wide trim because then, when they apply the trim, it entirely covers the hem and that means no hem will be visible at all, regardless of whether the audience sees the right side or the wrong side. Shira doesn't do this because she is in the habit of turning it to the wrong side and she feels the audience won't get a close enough look at the hem to care whether it's visible on the wrong side anyway. Either approach is fine.

Decorate

Some fabrics are so beautiful that they really don't require any sort of decoration. However, if desired, decorations can be added to the hem or designs created with beads, sequins, shells, crystals, or shisha mirrors across the panels of the skirt.

If a trim will be used on the curved edge, sew it into place now. Shira usually machine-sews the trim because it goes much faster than hand-sewing. Because of the dancer's distance from the audience they usually won't be able to tell the difference anyway. But hand-sewing is appropriate for those who want to take extra care.

If one or more slits were left open, the edges could be decorated. Some people do this, others don't. (Shira doesn't.) It just depends on what look is desired.

If opting for a hand-sewn bead-and-sequin edging, the lower edge could be finished using the Bead and Sequin Embroidery made from 8-mm cup sequins and rocaille beads. This could also be used to create designs such as flowers, spirals, or geometric shapes on the skirt.

Inserting the Elastic or Drawstring

Attach either a bodkin (see photo at right) or a large safety pin to one edge of the elastic or drawstring. Thread the bodkin or the safety pin through the casing at the top edge of the single half-circle piece (if making a 3-panel skirt with 2 slits) and pull the elastic through. Next thread the bodkin through the top edge of the two half-circle pieces that were sewn together. This will result in all three of the skirt pieces on the elastic, with two of them sewn together and a gap between those and the third. Sew the raw edges of the elastic together, and adjust the casing at the top edge of the skirt to cover them. Or, if using a drawstring, attach a hook and eye set to the ends of the drawstring to fasten it together at the top. A second set of hook and eye is recommended to prevent the skirt from falling down in case the primary set accidentally gives way while dancing. If leaving slits, try on the skirt and determine whether you want to add a few inches of stitching to close the top of each slit for a more modest look.

How to Wear a Circle Skirt

Position the seam at the center back. Allow the two slits to fall open in front, at the thighs. For dancers who prefer to keep the thighs covered, the following alternatives can work:

Sew the slits closed, just like sewing the center back seam.

Wear a second skirt underneath, which is positioned such that its seam falls in the center front.

Wear pantaloons underneath.

The circle skirt can be layered with a variety of different costume items, for different looks. The photo to the right shows two three-panel circle skirts worn together. The top skirt is made of a sheer lacy fabric (same as the veil), while the underskirt is made of a more opaque fabric. The color of the underskirt shows through the lacy top layer, and the underskirt provides enough body to create skirt movement in spins. Three rows of single-strand sequin trim along the bottom edge provide definition to the movement of the skirt while dancing, particularly in spins. The photo to the right is by Bill Corwin, San Jose, California, 1986.

In the double veil picture to the right, three circle skirts are worn, each in a different color. Each skirt is a 3-panel circle skirt with a center back seam and the front panel left separate from the back panels to allow slits over the thighs. The green skirt is on top. The red skirt is brought up between the slits of the green skirt and tucked at the hip to give the appearance of an accent skirt worn over the top of the other two circle skirts. The gold skirt is worn closest to the body, with its "back" seam worn in center front. Click on the photo to the right to see this costume in more detail. PHOTO CREDIT: Photo by Evelyn M. Elliot, Strawberry Point, Iowa.

A single circle skirt could be layered over pantaloons. When dancing outdoors or on a raised stage, it is wise to wear at least one other item with the circle skirt: either an overskirt in a different shape, a second circle skirt in a different fabric, or a pair of pantaloons. This is because a single skirt can accidentally fly open while spinning and expose your bottom. This risk is particularly likely on a raised stage when the audience is looking up at the dancer from below, or when dancing outdoors when the wind can catch the skirt and expose the dancer's undercarriage.

With more than one layer, the dancer is less likely to flash the audience with a view of her panties. (Even if the dancer doesn't mind letting the audience see her panties, and even if she wears panties that are designed to serve as an extension of the costume, audience members typically would rather not see such a spectacle - especially if they have their children with them.)

Variations

Three-Tiered Skirt

This look works best for tall, thin dancers, due to the multiple horizontal lines.

Make a three-tiered skirt as follows: Cut out three 2-panel skirts, in three different lengths, all of the same fabric. One skirt should be full length, the second one about a third of the distance from the hip to the floor, and the third one about two-thirds of the distance from the hip to the floor. For each skirt, sew the openings on both sides closed, resulting in a single continuous full circle for each layer.

Place the full-length skirt on its own piece of elastic so it can be worn separately for mix-and-match with other costume pieces. Attach the other two skirts together on a single piece of elastic. (Hold the two layers' top edges together when applying the bias tape.) Trim the bottom edges of all three skirts with a contrasting color so that the lower edge of each is very obvious. Result: a three-tiered skirt effect when these are worn them together.

Scalloped or Wavy Lower Edge on an Accent Skirt Make the lower edge of the skirt a scallop or wavy shape all the way around. (Don't do this unless either using a knit fabric that doesn't require a hem, using a serger to finish the edge,, or very skilled at sewing - hemming it is not easy!) This photo shows a full-length turquoise tissue lamé circle skirt, with a darker blue circle overskirt which has been cut shorter, with a wavy bottom edge. The sleeves are miniature copies of the accent skirt, cut in a circular shape with the same wavy bottom edge. Click on the photo to see the skirt in more detail. Photo by Jeff Halpin, circa 1999.
A Zig-Zag Bottom Edge with Two Tiers This approach is reminiscent of Egyptian costumes from the 1990's. Make the lower edge of the skirt a zig-zag all the way around: \/\/\/\/\/ (Don't do this unless you either using a knit fabric that doesn't require a hem or very skilled at sewing - hemming a zig-zag shape is not easy!) The blue skirt to the right was made in Egypt. Two half-circle panels were used for each tier. They were sewn together along one edge, and the other was left open as a slit to expose the leg while dancing. The flowers were made using the bead-and-sequin embroidery technique described elsewhere on this web site. Photo by John Rickman, San Jose, California, 2000.
Rectangular Bottom Edge Shaping, Three Tiers This is another variation from Egypt in the 1990's. Make the lower edge of the skirt a series of rectangles: |_| |_| |_| (Don't do this unless you are either using a knit fabric that doesn't require a hem or the sewing machine can finish off the raw edge with a zigzag hem stitch - this shape is very difficult to hem the traditional way!) In the costume shown in the photo to the right, two half-circle panels were used for each tier. They were sewn together along one edge, and the other was left open as a slit to expose the leg while dancing. The edges of each tier were finished using a zig-zag stitch, then decorated with a bead-and-paillette edging. On each of the rectangular sections, a flower design was created using sequins in assorted colors. Click on the image to the right to see this costume in more detail. Photo by Randolph Lynch, Belmont, California, 2002.

Bottom Edge Ruffle

A ruffle can be either the same fabric as the main body of the circle skirt, or it can contrast. One attractive option is to make the half circle pieces out of a solid color of fabric, and the ruffle out of a brightly-colored coordinating print. For this style of skirt, a two-panel version should suffice, though a three-panel version could also be attractive.

Storing the Circle Skirt

The storage method will depend partly on whether it was necessary to hang the skirt before hemming it.

If it was necessary to hang the skirt and trim the lower edge before hemming it, then it should not be stored hanging on a hanger. It will probably continue to "grow" just as it did when it was hung, and the bottom edge will eventually stretch into an unsightly uneven shape. For best results, store it carefully folded in a drawer.

If the fabric did not require hanging (such as tissue lamé or nylon tricot) then the skirt may be stored either folded or on a hanger.

Related Articles

Other articles on this web site that may offer insights into making a circle skirt include:

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