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Ask the Costume Goddess

Ask the Costume Goddess:

Making Armbands

by Dina Lydia

The Question

Dear Costume Goddess:

Could you please give me some ideas for arm bands? My arms are not fat or skinny so I have nothing to hide. My costume is silver beading and sequins, halterneck, and white harem pants with silver sequins and beading with royal blue crystals and blue chiffon scarving tied to pants. Any ideas
would be great!

--Arms Are Us

The Costume Goddess Responds

Dear Arms Are Us,

Armbands are another way of decorating bare arms and easier than making sleeves or gauntlets. (See Making Gauntlets).

They really call attention to your upper arms--so are not the best choice if that area is large or squishy (See Flabby Arms). If your arms are too thin, wide beaded bands add the illusion of more bulk, and if your arms are nicely proportioned, like yours, narrow to medium sized bands will look very attractive. Just a single armband is fine too.

So often I see beginners wearing a band of stretch sequin trim, but it can look amateurish. Any ornate trim works with my easy instructions below under "A Trim Band".

If your sewing skills are a step higher, you can make a shaped armband and cover it with costume fabric as described below under "A Fabric Armband".

A chiffon triangle drape might be added when the band is finished (See Sleeve Drapes) or strips of chiffon for a "feathery" look.

Any of the beads from your costume could be applied to the armband as fringe, tassels or drapes, and the band could be covered with matching fabric, trim, appliques or sequins.

Click on this image to see it in more detail.

How to Make a Basic Armband

My armband is simple to make, while more sophisticated than the often-seen stretch sequin band of the beginner.

Description: A snug fitting elastic band is covered with a band of decorative trim or interfaced band of costume fabric. Because the outer band is slightly larger than elastic, and attached to the elastic at two points only, it fits smoothly around arm without puckering, while the elastic holds it securely on arm.

Variations: Decorative trim may be used, or a band of interfacing may be cut to any shape and covered with fabric to match costume. Band may be ornamented with tassels, beads, fringe or drapes. Gauntlets (sleeves) may be attached, or strips of sheer fabric for a floaty effect. Strings of beads may be attached from armband to wristband.

Level: Easy

Suitable for: Any costumed occasion. May not be flattering on a large or soft upper arm.

Fabric suggestions: For a trim band, choose sequined, corded, ribbon, or metallic trim ½" to 1½" wide. Avoid trim that is sheer, round, very thick, or fragile. For a fabric band, choose any costume fabric that is not sheer or fragile. Metallic, sequinned, or sparkled fabric is already decorative, while a plain fabric such as velvet may need ornaments.

A Trim Band

The diagram at the right shows how to make it. Click on the image to see it in more detail.

Materials:

Ten to fifteen inches of trim, depending on arm size.
A similar amount of half-inch elastic in color closest to costume color.

Measure upper arm where band will be worn. Elastic will be ¼" smaller than this measurement, to hold it firmly in place. It will have a ½" overlap, so cut elastic ¼" larger than arm measurement.
Overlap ends of elastic ½" and hand or machine stitch. Try on. Elastic band should be snug but comfortable.
Upper band of trim will be 1/4" larger than arm. It will have ½" seam allowance on each end, so cut trim 1 ¼" larger than arm measurement.
Fold trim right sides together and sew a ½" seam by hand or machine. Try on. Band should slip easily over arm. Press open seam, or fold open and hand sew in place. (Don't press sequins.) If trim ravels easily, you may secure the edges with glue; it won't show on the outside. Let glue dry.
Insert elastic band into trim band.
Tack the two layers together by hand invisible at two points opposite each other on the circle, as illustrated.
Decorate as desired. See "Decoration", below.

A Fabric Armband With Felt Backing

The felt backing is soft, absorbs perspiration and can be replaced if it gets grubby. Because it doesn't ravel, the edges need not be finished.

MATERIALS:

One eighth yard of costume fabric. Choose any costume fabric that is not sheer or fragile. Metallic, sequined, or sparkled fabric is already decorative, while a plain fabric such as velvet may need ornaments.
Matching felt
Medium to stiff non-woven interfacing
Paper about 2" larger than arm measurement and about 3" wide
Ten to fifteen inches of ½" elastic.
Matching thread or Glue (Fabric-Tac or glue-gun).

Repeat steps 1 and 2 above for trim armband to make elastic band.
Draw the shape of armband on paper. Finished outer band will be 1/4" larger than arm. It will have ½" seam allowance on each end, so cut pattern 1 ¼" longer than arm measurement, and allow ¼" to ½" for seams top and bottom.
Pin pattern on fabric; cut fabric from pattern adding 1/2" seam allowances.
Pin pattern on interfacing; cut interfacing with no seam allowances.
Fold seam allowances under the top and bottom edges of interfacing, clipping angles and curves where necessary, and edge-stitch through all layers. OR Apply glue to back side edges of interfacing and fold fabric over edges, clipping angles and curves where necessary, and let glue dry. Now you have raw edges visible on the underside of the piece.
Using the same pattern, cut a piece from felt (which does not ravel), trim off seam allowances, glue or stitch to the backside of armband.
If intricate design with jewels, trim, or beads is to be applied, decorate while flat, before seam in next step is sewn.
Finish by seaming armband neatly, tacking in inner elastic band as above for TRIM band.
Decorate as desired. See "Decoration", below.

Decoration

Here are some ideas for decorating your armbands:

Sew one or more tassels at bottom or top edge of band.
Sew beaded or nylon fringe along bottom edge of band.
Sew bead or jewelry pendants along bottom edge of band.
Drape strings of beads from bottom edge of band.
Sew large glass or acrylic jewels to band singly or in clusters.
Outline the edges of band with narrow trim.
Outline the edges of band with bugle beads.
Sew finished chiffon strips or triangles to band, as shown in the Feather Sleeves diagram to the right.
Sew a gauntlet (sleeve) to band.

--The Costume Goddess

Other articles on this web site related to costuming for the arms include:

Ask The Costume Goddess: Making Gauntlets. Describes how to make a pair of gauntlets for dancing.
Ask The Costume Goddess: Falling Gauntlets. What to do about gauntlets that fall down while dancing.
Ask The Costume Goddess: Attaching Coins, Beads, Bells. How to apply hanging ornaments to a costume piece.

Ask The Costume Goddess: Sleeve Variations. Describes how to make assorted styles of sleeves and arm drapes.
Ask The Costume Goddess: Jiggly Arms. What to do if your upper arms are flabby.
The Costume Goddess Tells All: Arm Costume for Bellydancers. Review of book by Dina Lydia.

About the Costume Goddess

Dina has been sewing for more than twenty-five years (yes, she started as a toddler!)

She's also an artist (Maryland Institute of Art) and perfected her sewing techniques apprenticed to various designers, freelancing for small theaters, restyling vintage garments, and altering wedding gowns.

Dina fell in love with belly dancing costumes upon her very first lesson. Now the pleasure of wearing her own designs, and seeing others wear them, offers as much pleasure as dancing. She's become expert as well in altering those troublesome ready-made Egyptian costumes, and modifying designs to flatter individual figures.

She holds workshops in Seattle to teach design and construction of cabaret costumes, and analysis of figure characteristics. She will also give private lessons, or resize or repair a secondhand costume. She's thus earned her Costume Goddess title.

Photo of Dina Lydia, The Costume Goddess

The Costume Goddess Tells All Costuming Books

Dina has published six books of her own on belly dance costuming as well as writing nearly all the costuming section for The Belly Dance Book. For information on her series of books, The Costume Goddess Tells All, see her web site at www.costumegoddess.com. For reviews here on Shira.net of some of her books, see:

Volume 1: Flattering Costume for Bellydancers. Advice on designing a belly dance costume that will look flattering for your figure type.
Volume 2: Easy Costume for Bellydancers. Explains how to create easy-to-make costume items if you have very little sewing experience.
Volume 3: Cabaret Belt and Bra for Bellydancers. Detailed instructions for making your own bra/belt set. Emphasis on the beaded/sequined look, but some coin information too.
Volume 4: Arm Costume for Bellydancers. Creative ideas for sleeves, armbands, gauntlets, and drapes.
Volume 5: Tribal Toppings for Bellydancers. Cholis, vests, and other tops suitable for U.S. Tribal costuming.
Volume 6: Thrifty Chic for Bellydancers. Transforming thrift shop bargains into belly dance costume pieces.
Volume 7: Headpieces for Bellydancers. Many simple, inexpensive ideas for costuming from the neck up.

Costume Goddess Photos

To view a photo gallery featuring pictures of Dina, costumes she has designed, and her friends, either click on the choices below or visit her web site: