Ask the Costume Goddess:

Altering a Purchased Belt

by Dina Lydia

The Question

Dear Costume Goddess:

I have a sequined Egyptian belt that is too big for me. I can not cut it because all the sequins would fall off, and it has no shaping. How can I adjust it to fit without destroying it?

--Mikola

The Costume Goddess Responds

Dear Mikola,

Yours is a short question with a long answer.

Everyone's sequinned Egyptian belt is too big and and has no shape. I hear this constantly. Just shortening and angling the opening edge won't work. The belt will end up asymmetrical and still ill-fitting. Major surgery will be necessary.

You can cut it and the sequins will not all fall off because you will carefully pick them off where necessary, save them in a little plastic box and sew them back on later. Don't be too intimidated. You will find a belt is no mystery but just a construction that can be manipulated and transformed. No blood is invoved. (Unless you jab your finger with a needle!)

Will this be a pain? Yes, yes! But you will end up with a perfectly fitting, curve-hugging costume that you'll be proud to wear. If you don't have good sewing skills, find someone who does, and learn by doing and watching, because you may run into this problem again.

Firstly, refer to my instructions on how to make a belt to fit using a paper pattern. You will use the same principle to determine where your belt needs to be altered.

Have a friend help, if possible. Try on the belt over form-fitting clothing, making sure it is centered, if it has a center motif, and of course the longer section is in the back. Use stout safety pins to pinch in the excess material at the top edge, which is probably the problem area. If any appliques or rows of beaded fringe are in the way, pick them off. Pin symmetrical "darts" at the biggest gaping part first, whether sides or back, or both. If the belt still sticks out in the front, you may have to pin center front as well. The side with the opening can be pinned at an angle and trimmed shorter, if necessary. Continue adjusting in this fashion until the belt shape conforms to your body, making sure it still is centered. Click on the image to the right to see the illustration in more detail.

Yes, I know that the material is stiff and thick, and actual folded darts would be too bulky, but I will explain how to get around that in a moment.

You will use brightly colored thread to mark where the pin pinches the fabric together. Two tacks for each dart. Then remove the pins. Now you can see how much material needs to be taken in. It may be a half inch to an inch for each dart. If more than an inch, two smaller darts would be better. Make sure all of these are evenly spaced, and the belt remains centered.

Baste in the wedge shape of the dart with thread. If it's a small dart, it might be two and a half to three inches long. If a large dart, it may have to extend nearly to the bottom edge of the belt.

Remove the hand stitching that attaches the lining to the outer belt at top edge and peel it back so that you can see the backside of the belt, probably stiff white buckram. Now you are beginning to feel like a surgeon, right? In the area of the wedge and a quarter inch or so to either side, you will pick off the beads and sequins (yes!), saving these and leaving the thread ends as long as possible. These you will pull to the back side of the belt, using a needle or seam ripper. If the threads are long enough, tie them in a little knot to secure the remaining sequins.

Wow! Time to take a break. Don't remain hunched over this project for too many hours at a time. Have lunch, go for a walk in the sunshine, get the kinks out.

Okay, you have returned to see a half-dissected belt with pathetic-looking bald spots and trailing threads, like your dad the first day after his hair plugs. It's time to get out the big scissors. Cut straight through the middle of the wedge shape through all layers. Overlap these cut edges, lining up the marks carefully. The edges can be trimmed a bit if too wide. Now pin and sew through all layers, both sides of dart, with stout thread. When all the (overlapped, not folded) darts are basted in, you can see that the belt has taken on a curved shape.

The opening edge can be cut shorter now if necessary, but leave two inches of overlap in case of weight gain or later sale to a larger person.

Try it on once again, making sure it really is a perfect fit, adjusting if necessary, and marking the overlap. A friend can see the back better.

Now you have a raw edge exposed on each dart. The beads and sequins will cover this, but to make sure it does not ravel, cover this edge with white glue or Fray-check and let it dry thoroughly. Time for another break.

Now you must sew the beads and sequins back over the surgically altered areas. Typically, the sequin-covered belt is sewn in a pattern of two sequins side by side connected by a "bridge" of three beads. This isn't hard to do. Sometimes there's a border at the top, which needs to be duplicated, as well. The satisfaction of seeing the belt's bald spots filled in with sequins and returning to its original glory is considerable.

When this is accomplished, you will replace any appliques and rows of fringe that you picked off earlier, making sure the spacing is correct, of course.

All that's left to do is replace the lining, folding under the open edges neatly, and securely sewing on hooks and eyes with heavy thread. If you followed each step correctly, the belt should fit better than a glove.

You can be proud. This is like replacing your own transmission or brakes — quite an accomplishment. Well, at least like changing your oil. Now, go and practice those belly rolls!!

--The Costume Goddess

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Other articles on this web site related to working with belly dance belts include:

About the Costume Goddess

Dina has been sewing for more than twenty-five years (yes, she started as a toddler!) She's also an artist (Maryland Institute of Art) and perfected her sewing techniques apprenticed to various designers, freelancing for small theaters, restyling vintage garments, and altering wedding gowns. Dina fell in love with belly dancing costumes upon her very first lesson. Now the pleasure of wearing her own designs, and seeing others wear them, offers as much pleasure as dancing. She's become expert as well in altering those troublesome ready-made Egyptian costumes, and modifying designs to flatter individual figures. She holds workshops in Seattle to teach design and construction of cabaret costumes, and analysis of figure characteristics. She will also give private lessons, or resize or repair a secondhand costume. She's thus earned her Costume Goddess title.

The Costume Goddess Tells All Costuming Books Dina has published six books of her own on belly dance costuming as well as writing nearly all the costuming section for The Belly Dance Book. For information on her series of books, The Costume Goddess Tells All, see her web site at www.costumegoddess.com. For reviews here on Shira.net of some of her books, see: Volume 1: Flattering Costume for Bellydancers. Advice on designing a belly dance costume that will look flattering for your figure type. Volume 2: Easy Costume for Bellydancers. Explains how to create easy-to-make costume items if you have very little sewing experience. Volume 3: Cabaret Belt and Bra for Bellydancers. Detailed instructions for making your own bra/belt set. Emphasis on the beaded/sequined look, but some coin information too. Volume 4: Arm Costume for Bellydancers. Creative ideas for sleeves, armbands, gauntlets, and drapes. Volume 5: Tribal Toppings for Bellydancers. Cholis, vests, and other tops suitable for U.S. Tribal costuming. Volume 6: Thrifty Chic for Bellydancers. Transforming thrift shop bargains into belly dance costume pieces. Volume 7: Headpieces for Bellydancers. Many simple, inexpensive ideas for costuming from the neck up.

Costume Goddess Photos

To view a photo gallery featuring pictures of Dina, costumes she has designed, and her friends, either click on the choices below or visit her web site:

• Part 1: Regular Costumes
• Part 2: Novelty Costumes

The contents of this page are copyrighted 2009 by Dina Lydia. All rights reserved. Unauthorized duplication is forbidden.

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