PHOTO CREDIT: Above photo by John Rickman Photography, San Jose, California.

Another way of doing the same thing is to turn a flat strip of cloth into a CURVED strip of cloth, that is, one that is larger around the bottom edge, just like a woman's hips. (This curve is what saves us from the danger that some men must live with — the possibility of their pants falling down.) That's why I place the darted pattern onto a fresh piece of paper and trace the curve (folding in half to make sure it's symmetrical!) It saves me the trouble, and the extra bulk, of folding and stitching darts into my belt form.

The curve of the belt form will vary depending on the curve of your hip, as I've illustrated. A small hip and flat rear will require only a slight curve, An average hip and medium-sized rear will have a more pronounced curve in the belt form. If your hip or rear is extremely rounded, you may have to include the darts after all, because what you need is a large curve at the top edge of the belt, and less towards the bottom edge. You simply must try on and adjust your belt pattern until it's perfectly fitting, and for this a friend is helpful.

Once your have your individual belt pattern perfected, you may make paper duplicates and experiment with shapes and angles: points, curves, scallops, notches, center medallions, etc. I'm absolutely convinced that any sort of shaping on the edges of a belt makes it a far more flattering costume piece than a plain old straight belt. This subject deserves a column by itself.

• Ask The Costume Goddess: Altering A Purchased Belt. Describes how to make alterations to a finished belt to make it fit better.
• The Costume Goddess Tells All: Cabaret Belt & Bra for Bellydancers. Review of book by Dina Lydia.

• Ask The Costume Goddess: Fitting Belts. Describes how to make a belt fit properly when you are making it.

Dina has been sewing for more than twenty-five years (yes, she started as a toddler!)

She's also an artist (Maryland Institute of Art) and perfected her sewing techniques apprenticed to various designers, freelancing for small theaters, restyling vintage garments, and altering wedding gowns.

Dina fell in love with belly dancing costumes upon her very first lesson. Now the pleasure of wearing her own designs, and seeing others wear them, offers as much pleasure as dancing. She's become expert as well in altering those troublesome ready-made Egyptian costumes, and modifying designs to flatter individual figures.

She holds workshops in Seattle to teach design and construction of cabaret costumes, and analysis of figure characteristics. She will also give private lessons, or resize or repair a secondhand costume. She's thus earned her Costume Goddess title.

The Costume Goddess Tells All Costuming Books

Dina has published six books of her own on belly dance costuming as well as writing nearly all the costuming section for The Belly Dance Book. For information on her series of books, The Costume Goddess Tells All, see her web site at www.costumegoddess.com. For reviews here on Shira.net of some of her books, see:

• Volume 1: Flattering Costume for Bellydancers. Advice on designing a belly dance costume that will look flattering for your figure type.
• Volume 2: Easy Costume for Bellydancers. Explains how to create easy-to-make costume items if you have very little sewing experience.
• Volume 3: Cabaret Belt and Bra for Bellydancers. Detailed instructions for making your own bra/belt set. Emphasis on the beaded/sequined look, but some coin information too.
• Volume 4: Arm Costume for Bellydancers. Creative ideas for sleeves, armbands, gauntlets, and drapes.
• Volume 5: Tribal Toppings for Bellydancers. Cholis, vests, and other tops suitable for U.S. Tribal costuming.
• Volume 6: Thrifty Chic for Bellydancers. Transforming thrift shop bargains into belly dance costume pieces.
• Volume 7: Headpieces for Bellydancers. Many simple, inexpensive ideas for costuming from the neck up.